Wednesday, July 15, 2015

A Shepherding Experience

Green rolling hills covered in both evergreen and leafy trees made up the landscape of the area around Güssing, Austria. This area of Austria is in the state of Burgenland, the area in southeast austria near the Hungarian and Slovenian borders.

Two weeks ago on Monday afternoon, Julie and I rolled into a small village by bus and awaited to be picked up by our newest host. It was after ten or so minutes, but eventually we were gathered and taken to the place where our hosts call home. 

It was over eight months ago that Julie and I found the Workaway host who was a wandering singing shepherd. According to the profile, we would be camping in tents in the mountains alongside the sheep and help with shepherding the sheep to new meadow daily. 

When we arrived to our host's home, we found a small community of trailers and wagon homes situated together on a low hill. We couldn't see any sheep.  We quickly learned that the shepherd's family had relocated to a more stationary living situation more than 2 years prior. Now they live in their trailer with an outhouse and a water spigot outside for running water. The sheep stay on meadows of grass within a 3-5 km radius. 

Julie and I were shown to our caravan that would be our little home for our time with the shepherd. It was a nice place to sleep and we had wifi almost everywhere around the trailers we walked. That was super surprising and pretty neat! 

That first day with our host we cut up small sticks for firewood and fuel for winter and colder days, enjoyed doing some exercises with the mom of the family and learned how to move and set up the electric fences that keep the sheep in their area of grass. Everywhere we went with M the mom, she had her two young children with her; either on her back or walking alongside. 

Tuesday started with the sun hot and high and Julie and I again cut up sticks. We also cleaned out many water tubs and filled them with a hand pump. More and more our time with this host was reminding me of Zambia and some of my experiences there. 

The best parts of our days were spent with M and her children. She was great to chat with, learn some new stretches and exercises from, and drink some of her delicious, fresh herbal tea. We also had the chance to go cherry, currant and raspberry picking! It was super fun to be so high in the tree getting the cherries! 

Wednesday evening came, and the shepherd wanted to move the sheep to a further meadow. We drove to the sheep and with the sun setting in the sky, the shepherd and his dogs started to lead the 150 ewes and rams down the road. Julie helped take down and put up the new fence while I headed down behind the sheep. I was to stay 50-100 yards away from the last sheep and warn cars to slow down. We walked 1 1/2 to 2 miles slowly along the road, then through some trees and grass and finally to the water tubs Julie and I filled the day before. The sheep were so grateful for the water! 

The shepherding of the sheep down the road was a very unique experience. It was such a quiet, relaxed walk and thankfully the weather had cooled to a tolerable temperature! Most of the cars who met the sheep were patient and very curious. There were some drivers and bystanders however who were not so keen on having sheep going down the middle of the road. I didn't quite understand all the words exchanged by those who were unhappy and the shepherd, but it did seem to become pretty heated discussions as we walked down the road. 

The best part of walking and moving the sheep was the beautiful full moon that was rising as the sheep were finally let into their new home for the night. The green rolling hills and patches of evergreen and leafy forests made the evening sky amazing to see and enjoy in the stillness of dusk and then the moonlight. 

After our late night moving the sheep to further meadow, Thursday morning came and the heat again as well! M was ready for a full day and we set about washing the dishes with just a lemon and preparing to bring loads of compost and manure for M's garden. At the horse farm, while the children sat on a blanket nearby and watched, Julie, M and I loaded shovel and fork-fulls of rich horse manure and compost. It was warm in the sun, but such good hard work. It was a welcomed task, especially working alongside with M. 

After the many hours of good, hard work, Thursday evening arrived, and we had decided it would be our last evening near Güssing in southeastern Austria. We helped take down the previous days fence as the shepherd stood with the sheep. M again had her 16 month old daughter on her back as she easily went up and down the side hill picking up the fence posts. We then staked out two new fences for the following two days. We were under some trees, and unfortunately the bugs and mosquitoes tried to eat us alive! We were happy again when the moon creeped up into the sky and illuminated the land in bright full moon light and chased away a lot of the early evening insects. 

Our last evening with the shepherd and M and their children was concluded with an amazing meal of crepes and fresh berries. M really knows how to make a super tasty crepe! 

After a late night again of packing and using the one shower available in the unfinished house nearby, Julie and I started our Friday around 4am and left with M and the children bound for Vienna. M was off to see her family and was gracious enough to give us a lift to the city on her way through. 

Even along the way, we stopped to buy some locally made pumpkin seed oil which is grown almost exclusively in the southeast regions of Austria. We can't wait to try it on our salads back in the States!! 

Julie and I were so happy to be in Vienna, a beautiful city for sure. We had such an interesting experience the 4 days with the shepherd and his family. It was definitely not the experience we expected, but surely was a learning time and will continue to be a great story to share! We loved the time we shared with M and her children and will remember the beautiful hills, the quiet walking with the sheep and the amazing and bright full moon.


















Monday, July 6, 2015

Another City to Love

As you know, Salzburg is our favorite city in Austria. But after spending two days in Vienna, we have found a second favorite! On two separate days, we got to see some great areas of Austria's largest city! We arrived to Vienna on a Wednesday morning and headed to Schloss Schönbrunn to see the beautiful former summer home of members of the Habsburg monarchy. The grounds are beautiful and we loved the view of the city from the Gloriette.








We next found ourselves checking out St. Stephan's Cathedral. The building is incredible and we just can't wrap our mind around how it was built almost 1000 years ago! It is so tall and intricate.


Next door is a favorite store of ours - Manner! We enjoyed these famous wafers in their original flavor as well as vanilla and zitrone (lemon). So good!

We wandered the area and then found a restaurant recommended to us by our host - Demel. It is a cute cafe where you can watch the pastry chefs make all the sweet treats. We enjoyed our cakes and coffee! Another favorite way to spend our days!




The highlight of this trip was meeting up with one of the daughters from our first host in Austria and her boyfriend whom we also met during our stay on their farm. It was so nice to catch up with them over dinner and later some more coffee and Sacher Torte! Sacher torte is a Vienna original chocolate cake with a layer of apricot jam underneath the layer of chocolate frosting. We walked around the Ringstraße and saw different historical buildings and parks. It was so wonderful to be able to see our friends again and we can't believe the amazing connections we are making during our trip! We were sad to say goodbye but have high hopes of getting to see them again!





To cap off our Viennese experience, we went to William Shakespeare's The Tempest at the Vienna State Opera House or Wiener Staatsoper. We had standing room only tickets and didn't understand everything even though it was in English. However, we both decided that we like operas!



Finally, before heading back to the Mangalitza pigs, we shared a delicious meal of a kebab and pizza! Day one in Vienna was amazing!

After having a host situation that was not ideal, Dana and I did some last minute planning and decision making. We found ourselves back in Vienna for another day and fell even more in love with the city! We found out that the city is full of wonderful parks. After getting bread, meat, and cheese, we claimed a grassy spot near a canal of the Danube. We enjoyed a small snack and took in our surroundings before more exploration. We passed an industrial area of town that included Novartis and Johnson & Johnson.




As it was quite warm, we found shelter in a tree-filled path in a huge park. We found a nice shady grassy spot to do some exercises and rest. We took a nap as it had been an early morning for us. I love napping in the grass on a warm day.





As we love cafés and coffee houses, we decided to frequent one we had thought cute when we were there before. Aida has many cafés throughout the city and reminded us of a Classic American diner. We picked out some eis and an apple torte to share! It was so nice to sit and chat, while also getting to call our Mom. We have decided that subconsciously we were missing home as we chose an American-esqe cafe and enjoyed peanut butter and brownie ice cream!


We were blessed with the opportunity to meet another daughter of our first host in Austria that evening. Her sister arranged for us to stay at her flat and we are so grateful for this wonderful family we have met! It was so great to sit with her and her flat mate and share stories of our adventure. We enjoyed a lovely shower and snuggled into a no-buzzing, bug free bed! We awoke for a nice breakfast and said goodbye to our new friend. Then we were off on our next journey!

We even got to ride the tram as we made our way to the bus station. We found our bus and headed to Prague!



Saturday, July 4, 2015

Living among Mangalitza pigs

As the tractor pulled up beside the row of pens with a load of potatoes in the back, we got our first glimpse of the red, white and black pigs covered in full coats of hair. Mangalitza pigs.

Residing north of Vienna, the last family who graciously hosted Julie and I for two weeks raise and slaughter the rare, Hungarian originating breed of Mangalitza pigs. These hogs are either red, blond or sallow-bellied and are distinguished by their thick coat of hair and amazing fat producing capabilities. Lard is what these pigs are known for.

Julie and I spent two busy weeks cooking potatoes to feed to the pigs and tossing buckets or shovel-fulls of the potatoes over fences to be greeted by grunting and happy sows and boars. Because lard and quality fat are such important products of the Mangalitza pig, potatoes are one of the best foods to feed the pigs. They are all starch and help with fat production!

Not only did we cook and feed potatoes, we also spent many hours almost every day doing the 'green stuff' in the garden. When it was time to go weed the large garden and rows of vegetables, we were summoned to do the green stuff! Weeding may never be called weeding again by Julie and I! We weeded rows of salad, zucchini, cabbage, kohlrabi, berries with thorns, tomatoes, and pepper plants. The grass and other green stuff we pulled went to the squealing little pigs to enjoy!

With the garden and over 100 sows, our hosts work to be as sustainable as possible. This includes using all of the hog when they slaughter. Julie and I were able to watch the Dad of the family cut up a sow they'd slaughtered before we arrived. He uses a unique method for cutting up the carcasses he refers to as seam processing. This method allows for better usage of the whole carcass and produces better pieces for the drying and/or curing of speck.

After a sow is slaughtered and processed, the Mom of the family was always busy cooking up broth from bones, blood sausage using parts of the head as well, stew with lung, heart and tongue and grinding up little pieces for other sausages or recipes. One day we got to watch the making of lard. That was so neat!

We enjoyed amazing dishes each meal made from the family's pigs and vegetable garden, however, the sweetest treat we were able to enjoy was fresh from the hive honey! Both Julie and I watched the pulling out of the slats of honeycomb and learned about the male and female eggs growing inside the hives. We then watched the spinning of the honey out of the honey combs and enjoyed some natural 'bubble gum.' The gum was just some of the wax still with honey inside. We chewed the wax bits and enjoyed the sweet honey until all was gone. So super tasty good! We want bees now!!

Julie and I learned so much over the last two weeks and hope to see what we will be able to implement and try at home in just three months! Fat and lard will always be viewed a little differently from now on and I can never say again that I ate blood sausage and didn't like it! It was wild for me, but it really tasted good!

It was a very fun, learning experience! Thank you to the wonderful family that was our host!

Time to cook potatoes!





One of the many pigs

Ready to feed the pigs!

Making a mud bath!

We love "the green stuff!"


Watching seam processing



Blond Mom with her babies

Grinding meat for Leberkäse

Hawaiian roasted pig for the Hoffest: this hog was wrapped in nettles and cooked slowly in the ground for 16 or more hours! So tasty! 

Yummy cherries! 

Making lard! 

Cleaning the horse paddocks! 


We're bee keepers now!! 



Spinning the honey from the slats. 

Natural bubble gum-wax with honey to chew off! Yum! 

Honey! 

What a beautiful place! 

A wonderful time in a super place!